by the shores of the gitche gumee

Hello from the shores of the Gitche Gumee (or the Gichi Gami, depending on what Indian translation you want to use). Well, that was true yesterday, when I wrote this and intended to post it but couldn’t find a WiFi. Lake Superior was a little like Montana; I couldn’t get away from it, but today I’m camping on the shores of Lake Michigan. Whose Indian name I have no idea…
Last I left you, I was in Duluth. I got a late start out of there, as I had been up until 3am doing various things (including writing the last blog) and then spent some time clearing out email since I don’t have to worry about laptop power any more. As a result, I didn’t make too much progress eastward, maybe about 100 miles, before I stopped at the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. Since it was Friday afternoon, a busy time, I was told by the ranger to secure a camp spot on the lake before I went hiking, which I did. I did an excellent 9 mile round-trip hike along the lakeshore with a LOT of up-and-down. Exception of the altitude, it was as difficult as any hike I’d done in the mountains during the first week. It was warm, about 88 when I started, and everyone I met was complaining about the heat. Glad I’m Sacramento-proofed.
That evening the stars were as clear and bright as I’d seen in a while, so I went down to the dock to lay down and watch the annual Perseids meteor shower, which was just beginning. (It lasts for 3 nights, so I’m hoping the weather holds.)
Just for the heck of it, I decided to put the rain flap on the tent although the skies were clear, and it was a good thing – in the morning I awoke to raindrops. Getting a bit tired of all of the rain while camping, but I guess I’m just a spoiled Californian…
The next day I was on my way to Pictured Rocks but got sidetracked by an excellent hiking opportunity in the Porcupine Mountains. Blew out a 12-miler (which was supposed to be a loop, but I took a wrong turn, so it ended up being an out-and-back) with a lot of uphill, so I got my exercise in. Managed to grab a shower in the lower ‘developed’ campground, as I was in a 3-spot ‘rustic’ campground up in the forest. Got what I hope were a couple of good sunset shots of the lake…
One of the spots was empty so there was only two of us in the campground. When I got back to the site I started talking to the guy – turns out he owns a resort in the lower part of Michigan. He gave me a brochure and told me I could stay there ‘at cost’ if I come back this way again. The sky was clear and the second night of the meteor shower was starting, so we watched that for a while as we compared notes on our travels. He was there a couple of days in advance of a church group of teenage boys he was going to take into the backcountry. Another in a long list of interesting people I’ve met.
Today I broke camp and did a quick 4-mile hike before rolling out, since I wasn’t sure if I’d get much of an opportunity later. I was again heading towards Pictured Rocks and the charter boat tour of the lake cliffs. Unfortunately, when I got to the dock, the waves on Lake Superior were 8 feet due to the strong wind, so they weren’t going out. Rather than waste some travel time by setting up camp and waiting until the morning (when there was no guarantee), and given the fact that the campsites were several miles down a gravel road (which I’d promised Naomi I wouldn’t drive “her” car on) I simply left and headed south towards Lake Michigan. I’d been told about a hiking opportunity down here, so I tackled that – short but fairly intense – and then found a campsite along the lake where I now sit typing.
My original plan for tomorrow was to cross the border yet again and drive through Ontario and maybe Quebec, re-entering the US either at Buffalo, NY or somewhere north in Vermont or Maine. However, since I discovered that the 49ers are on Monday Night Football, and I’ve had absolutely no information on training camp for my beloved 49ers, I’m going to find a motel with ESPN and stay there. I’m due for a motel anyway. Not totally sure if I could be guaranteed of seeing the game if I’m in Canada, so I may head south and stay somewhere in lower Michigan. As I’ve noted before, though, a Toyota Prius with California plates down in GM/Ford/Chrysler country seems like a traffic ticket waiting to happen, even if I drive perfectly. So I’ll consider my options in the morning…
Hope everyone’s well!